Like a farewell kiss, but by a toothless dog with mange. That is how Egypt was to say goodbye after our two weeks here. And to have such shit as to be robbed of completely everything minus my passport and my black velvet, goat hair lined Jordanian vest which was a gift from a most beautiful French woman at the border. We were making our way back from Luxor after touring the western desert and at some point on the overnight train to Cairo somebody got off the train with my pack.
So, no photos for you all out there :-( The hardest things to lose were definitely the camera and journal which was a really big one that had travels from the past four years! Good thing i have a great memory.
The only way to get deep into the desert is by jeep or by camel, and after having a brief feeling of what even 20 minutes on a camel is like, we opted for a jeep. After spending a much needed day of relaxation in the Bahariyya Oasis, we organized a two day tour out into the White Desert. Our 4x4 was loaded and off we went across the world. First through the black desert, a flat landscape dotted with large anthill like projectiles. The orange sand is covered intensely by iron black pyrite, a beautiful stone smooth and heavy. From the top of one of the hills we had a 360 view like nothing else.
The highlight by far of the entire trip so far was the white desert. It is like entering a foreign world. Lunarly in nature, white monoliths of limestone erroded by wind take forms of many shapes. Like cloud gazing without the sky or the clouds. The jeep flies up and over dunes, around stones, and through the towers. At sunset, watching the massive ball drop down, the glow on the white stones turns pink and the entire horizon fades into night. The peach colored everything turns to moon shadowed rock under venus glow and the big dipper tells us where north is.
Our guides occasionally turn around and say "welcome" as if we havent been with them for over a day already. They were awesome though, and know the desert well. Language barriers are quikly overcome around the fire with shared tea and sheesha and lauging at jokes that probably are not understood by the others.
For us, accostomed to dirtbag style travel, a tour like this felt weird, everything about being super plush. But for what it was it was cheeeeeap and we had a fantastic time.
Luxor is said to be Egypt's most hassle filled city. It can be if you're a sucker -- good thing me and danny are no chumps when it comes to telling a tout to fuck off. We stayed in a small alley hotel and ventured off to see the ancient capital of Thebes. There are too many temples, palaces, and tombs to see in a year around the area, so we picked a handful that we liked.
Second day we rented bikes and had a grand ol time crusuing around the west bank of the nile and seeing some incredible places. The place is packed with honkeys - millions of tour busses and groups moving like ants marching to see everything, but we raged on our own wheels. The orignal dready jews club was started on bikes, and after all these years we still know how to kick it. (Julia, you were there in spirit. You too Haley Morgan honorary Jew)
After the shit show of losing my gear we were forced to return to Ahmed's place in Cairo, something we did not want to do at all. Tonight, after accomplishing nothing today, we leave for Israel. Yippee! Leaving Egypt right in time for passover... a sign maybe?
We are still going to Jordan, but only after i get some new gear from my sister in Jerusalem.
Danny's pack was stolen on our way to Egypt, mine stolen on our way to Israel. A test in materialism and attachment that we are now able to share.
Danny has two weeks left, i have a month and a half. I'll be doing trail work in Colorado this summer i just found out. Great Sand Dunes Natl Park. yes!
all good things
love love love